To clean the mussels, put them on a basin with water just enough to cover the shells. Put a teaspoon of salt. Leave them for at least an hour to expel the dirt and grime. After an hour, wash and drain and set aside.
Saute garlic until brown. Set aside. Saute ginger until brown then add the onions and saute until soft.
Add in patis and stir for 3 minutes then add the rice water and papaya. Cover and bring to a boil.
When papaya is half done, season with MSG, salt and pepper then add the mussels.
Boil until the shell open up. Lastly add the pepper leaves. Serve hot.